Weekend Surf Forecast - June 9th - 11th

Report Date: Friday 09 June 2017

For tips on forecasting see my book Surf Science, in paperback and animated versions Available at www.surfscience.org

Summary

Continuous swell at westerly exposures, lumpy in many places

Best bet

Northwest Spain

Synopsis at 00:00 UTC
Today’s chart shows a deep low centred about 800 miles north of the Azores, moving slowly east and weakening, expected over northern Ireland by Sunday. It has a strong westerly fetch on its southern flank producing some surf for westerly exposures. There is a band of high pressure south of the Azores and relatively low pressure over Iberia. The upper airstream is relatively strong for this time of year, and local pressure gradients are moderate.
NAO index (large positive values usually mean potentially good surf): +20 mb

Area forecasts

Southwest Wales

Friday:
Average to poor quality, wind-driven swell, up to four or five feet at exposed spots, with fresh southwest winds

Saturday:
Winds increase to strong south-southwest, gusting gale-force for a while at first, and wave heights increase to a very lumpy six feet or so

Sunday:
A more lined-up swell arrives, mixing with the existing windseas, up to five or six feet, with lumpy conditions in fresh to strong southwest winds

North Devon and Cornwall

Friday:
Average-quality swell mixed with local windseas generated by fresh west-southwest winds veering south later; wave heights picking up to six feet or so at exposed spots later

Saturday:
Winds pick up to strong gusting gale-force south-southwest and wave heights are a lumpy five or six feet in the west of the area, smaller elsewhere

Sunday:
A more solid swell arrives, exceeding six feet at exposed spots in the west, and still mixed with local windseas generated by fresh to strong southwest winds

South Coast of England

Friday:
Lumpy windseas generated by fresh gusting strong west-southwest winds, up to three or four feet at westerly exposures, smaller elsewhere

Saturday:
Winds back south-southwest, fresh gusting strong, and wave heights are a lumpy three or four feet in the west of the area

Sunday:
A much more lined-up swell arrives, up to about four feet at westerly exposures, smaller elsewhere, with fresh southwest winds

East coast of England

Friday:
Tiny north swell, struggling to exceed two feet in most places, but with good wind conditions in light to moderate westerlies

Saturday:
Wave heights drop to nothing in most places, and winds change to fresh gusting strong south, gradually veering southwest

Sunday:
Very small or flat in most places, with fresh gusting strong southwest winds

North Coast of Scotland

Friday:
Small, poor-quality swell and windseas from the north, up to about three feet at exposed spots, with fresh northerly winds

Saturday:
Small residual swell, perhaps up to two or three feet at swell-magnets, with fresh southeast winds veering south and gusting strong later

Sunday:
Very small or flat in most places except extreme westerly exposures that might pick up some west swell, up to two or three feet, with fresh southwest winds

Northwest Ireland

Friday:
Average quality west swell, around three or four feet at westerly exposures, smaller elsewhere, with moderate to fresh southwest winds

Saturday:
The swell becomes lumpier and winds pick up to strong gusting gale-force south-southwest; wave heights up to about five feet at westerly exposures, much smaller elsewhere

Sunday:
The swell becomes more solid, exceeding six feet at westerly exposures, smaller elsewhere, with fresh to strong southwest winds

Southwest Ireland

Friday:
Average-quality west swell, up to six or seven feet at exposed spots, with fresh becoming strong southerly winds

Saturday:
Winds pick up to gale-force south-southwest, and conditions become extremely lumpy, with wave heights around eight feet, but bigger at southwest exposures

Sunday:
The swell becomes more solid, hitting ten feet at southwest exposures at first, then dropping, with lumpy conditions in strong west-southwest winds

Southwest France

Friday:
Small residual swell with a longer-period component arriving later, around three feet or so, with light north or northwest winds

Saturday:
A more lined-up swell arrives from the west, up to four or five feet around Hossegor, with light easterly winds, backing north late afternoon

Sunday:
The swell becomes much more solid during the day, perhaps exceeding six feet later, with light northerly winds early morning becoming fresh westerlies by afternoon

North coast of Spain – east of Gijón

Friday:
Small residual swell with a longer-period component arriving from the west later, around three feet or so, with light becoming moderate or fresh northeast winds

Saturday:
The swell continues, around three feet and average quality, with light easterly winds in the morning then moderate to fresh northeast by around midday

Sunday:
A much more solid swell arrives from the west, hitting six feet at westerly exposures, hampered by moderate becoming fresh northwest winds

North coast of Spain – west of Gijón

Friday:
Average to good quality swell, around three or four feet at exposed spots, with light becoming moderate or fresh northeast winds

Saturday:
The swell weakens, around three feet or so on average, with windless conditions at first then light perhaps moderate northerlies

Sunday:
A much more solid swell arrives from the west-northwest, up to five or six feet at westerly exposures, with bumpy conditions and light to moderate northerly winds

Northwest Galicia

Friday:
Average-quality west swell, perhaps exceeding six feet at exposed spots, with moderate south becoming fresh southwest winds

Saturday:
The swell weakens, around five feet or so at first, picking up later, with moderate southwest winds veering west later

Sunday:
A much more solid swell arrives from the west, up to eight feet or more at exposed spots, with fresh winds from a northerly quarter

Portugal – north of Lisbon

Friday:
Average-quality swell, up to six feet or so at exposed spots later, with lumpy conditions in moderate becoming fresh northwest winds

Saturday:
The swell weakens at first then begins to increase, around five or six feet on average, with fresh north-northwest winds

Sunday:
A much more solid swell arrives from the west, hitting ten feet at exposed spots, hampered in many places by strong north-northwest winds

Portugal – south of Lisbon

Friday:
Good-quality swell, up to five feet or so, by hampered by moderate becoming fresh northwest winds

Saturday:
The swell drops to around four feet and becomes peaky, with light northerly winds at first quickly increasing to fresh gusting strong northwest

Sunday:
A long-period swell arrives from the west-northwest, exceeding eight feet at exposed reefs, with moderate becoming fresh perhaps strong northwest winds