Weekend Surf Forecast - Friday 20th Jan

Report Date: Friday 20 January 2017

For tips on forecasting see my book Surf Science, in paperback and animated versions Available at www.surfscience.org

Summary

Consistent long-period west swell with good small to medium surf at many spots

Best bet:
Ireland

Synopsis at 00:00 UTC

Today’s chart shows a small low pressure system just off Cape Farewell, moving steadily north, and another developing system near Newfoundland, slow moving but expected to deepen considerably by Sunday. High pressure extends over mid Europe, Britain and Ireland and there is a weak low over Iberia. The upper airstream is fairly weak at the moment. Local pressure gradients are also generally weak.
NAO index (large positive values usually mean potentially good surf): +10 mb

Area forecasts

Southwest Wales

Friday:
Small, good-quality swell, up to three or four feet at exposed spots in the west, with moderate to fresh east-southeast winds

Saturday:
The swell continues, perhaps weakening a little, around three feet or so on average, hampered at some spots by moderate perhaps fresh southeast winds

Sunday:
The swell continues almost unchanged, around three feet or so, with fresh southeast winds veering south by afternoon

North Devon and Cornwall

Friday:
Good-quality long period swell, around four or five feet, perhaps bigger at exposed spots in the far west, with moderate to fresh easterly winds

Saturday:

The swell continues, becoming more consistent, around four or five feet, with moderate southeast winds, becoming light southerlies later

Sunday:
The swell weakens slightly, around four feet or so in the west, smaller elsewhere, with moderate south or southeast winds, gusting fresh at first

South Coast of England

Friday:
Short-period east mixed with long-period west swell, around three feet at exposed spots, with fresh perhaps gusting strong east-northeast winds

Saturday:
Wave heights drop to below three feet practically everywhere, and winds are light east-southeast, gusting moderate at first

Sunday:
A small boost of swell from the west, up to two or three feet at westerly exposures, with light southeast winds

East coast of England

Friday:
Very small or flat practically everywhere, with light southwest winds

Saturday:
Continuing very small or flat, with light southeast winds

Sunday:
Very small or flat in most places although north-facing spots might see some tiny swell, up to one or two feet, with light southerly winds

North Coast of Scotland

Friday:
Smallish, mixed swell with a longer-period west swell struggling to reach most spots, around three feet on average, with light southwest winds backing south later

Saturday:
The west swell filters in a bit better, around three feet or so at westerly exposures and swell magnets, with light southerly winds

Sunday:
The west swell continues, perhaps exceeding three feet at exposed spots, with light variable winds

Northwest Ireland

Friday:
Good-quality west swell, up to six or seven feet at westerly exposures, smaller elsewhere, with moderate southeast winds

Saturday:
The swell drops slightly, down to around five feet or so at westerly exposures, smaller elsewhere, with moderate southeast winds

Sunday:
The swell swings west-northwest and picks up slightly at northwest-facing spots, around five or six feet on average, with light southeast winds

Southwest Ireland

Friday:
Good-quality west swell, exceeding six feet at exposed spots, with moderate to fresh southeast winds

Saturday:
The swell continues almost unchanged, around six feet or so and good quality, with light southeast winds

Sunday:
The swell swings west-northwest and becomes a bit mixed, but still very good conditions, with light east-southeast winds

Southwest France

Friday:
Smallish, long-period west swell, up to four feet or so north of Hossegor, perhaps smaller elsewhere, with light easterly winds

Saturday:
The swell remains quite small but becomes more consistent, up to three or four feet north of Hossegor, with light easterly winds

Sunday:
The swell continues, around three feet or so at most spots, picking up later in the south of the area, with light variable winds

North coast of Spain – east of Gijón

Friday:
Small, long-period west swell, up to three feet or so at westerly exposures but struggling to reach most other spots, with light easterly winds

Saturday:
The small swell continues, up to three feet at westerly exposures, smaller elsewhere, with very light northeast winds

Sunday:
Continuing small, around two or three feet on average, with light northerly winds chopping things up a bit

North coast of Spain – west of Gijón

Friday:
Small west swell, perhaps up to two or three feet at westerly exposures, but failing to reach most spots, with light east or northeast winds

Saturday:
The small west swell continues, but a pulse of northwest swell arrives late in the day, up to three feet or so, with light variable winds

Sunday:
The swell continues, around two or three feet on average, with light variable winds

Northwest Galicia

Friday:
Good-quality west swell, up to five or six feet at exposed spots, with light to moderate east then northeast winds

Saturday:
The swell picks up slightly, exceeding six feet at exposed spots, with moderate northeast winds

Sunday:
Wave heights drop to around four feet or so on average, with a small northwest component arriving, and light variable winds

Portugal – north of Lisbon

Friday:
Good-quality west mixed with a shorter-period northwest swell, exceeding six feet at exposed spots, with light variable winds

Saturday:
The swell continues, around six or seven feet at exposed spots, with moderate northeast winds backing north later and gusting fresh

Sunday:
Wave heights drop to around five feet or so, and winds pick up to fresh north or northwest

Portugal – south of Lisbon

Friday:
Good-quality long-period west swell, up to five or six feet at exposed reefs, with moderate northerly winds, backing northwest later

Saturday:
The swell continues, around six feet or so at exposed spots, with light to moderate northerly winds

Sunday:
Wave heights drop to around four or five feet, and winds pick up to fresh north steadily backing northwest during the day

Don't forget to keep a diary of your sessions this weekend! Download Johnny on the Spot from the App Store here, or from the Google Play Store here.